Tibetan Terrier Grooming
As all long-haired breeds, the coat of the Tibetan terrier requires more maintenance as their shorthaired companions. As opposed to the shorthaired ones, their advantage is that at the time of shedding we can simply brush out loose hair, while the shorthaired ones moult it at once, by this sticking millions of tiny little needles into the carpet. The hair of the Tibetan terrier is dual, the bottom of the coat is fine-woolly, and the guard one is long, not too silky, or woolly.
In shedding periods and at the time of changing the puppy hair, combing and brushing is recommended every day, in dwell once or twice a week is enough; the frequency depends on hair quality, length and profoundness of the owner. Do not comb its hair drily because the borderlands can be easily broken off. The Tibetan terrier has to be combed by turning its hair, which means that we push up the hair of the dog heaved down, and we start to comb it from the lowest coat. It is advisable to sprinkle it with mild or glyceric water. There are different combing sprays too, but beware of them, because they may cause hypersensitivity reaction. So before using it is useful to make a skin test on a smaller surface. This should be applied to all cosmetics with non-natural ingredients as well. If there are knots in the hair do not tear them out with the brush, try to pull them apart with your hand and comb only after. If the brush definitely gets stuck do not force it, try to pull the knot apart, to unspin it. Use high-quality, elastic brush with not too hard pins and wooden handle. After bathing never forget to comb the dog’s hair before drying it. Using a hair dryer is not advisable, however sometimes it is necessary. Opinions vary in connection with adequate shampoos. There are especial shampoos for dogs itemised according to breed, hair type and quality, hair length and hair colour. Be careful when using them because they may cause hypersensitivity reaction. In terms of skin health the best are hypoallergenic shampoos that insure maintenance of the skin’s moisture content and contain balm as well. Nevertheless, their usage does not always provide satisfactory results at the time of preparation for exhibitions. There are breeders who think human chemicals are the best for their dogs, such as baby shampoos and balms, but these are not definitely the best either since the pH value of people’s skin differs from the dogs’. It is worthy asking a cosmetician’s advice, but before it find out whether he knows the race, knows how is the healthy Tibetan’s hair satisfactory to its breed characteristics. This race is not really known in our country, there may be cosmeticians, who have never seen before a Tibetan closely.
If the hair of the dog is totally baized we can cut off his hair as a final solution, instead of untying the knot, which is a several-hour-long procedure, not a little bit enjoyable for the dog. Do not make a habit of it, because the dog’s hair may soften from trimming, which can lead to the deterioration of the hair’s quality and to further problems.
- If we do not take our dog to a cosmetician there are other tasks that wait for us. It is advisable to eliminate the hair between foot pads, typical of the Tibetan. We can avoid by this the troubles caused in the winter season by the snow and ice, in summer by the awn. In winter if we take the dog for a walk to a salted, slushy place, it is worthy to rub over its paws with some skin caring (glyceric) cream in order the salt not to erode them.
- The dog’s nails should be cut likewise as humans’. The frequency of their individual disposition varies, and depends on to what extent can the dog erode his nails while walking. It is advisable to buy a high-quality nail-scissors. There are of several types, the most widespread is the so called guillotine. If the nail is white the pink vital part is distinctly visible. Cut off the nail under it and take care not to cut into the pink part. If it is black, cut the nail rather frequently but always only a tiny part from its end, not to hurt the dog.
The dog’s interior ear is likewise the place where much hair may grow. Too much hair prevents the natural clearing of the ear, the earwax come together by causing inflammation, an unpleasant smell, and providing by this good substrate for different infections. It is worthy cutting out this hair by a blunt ended nippers or an artery forceps. Tearing is not really pleasant for the dog, but if we do it firmly and quickly, it is not painful at all. Besides this, it is recommended to use some kind of ear cleaning liquid.
- Usually you only have to drip them into the dog’s ear, massage a little bit and let the dog shake the excess out. As in case of the nail cut, the cosmetician or the vet can help us in the removal of the ear hair; ask them with confidence to show how to do it.
- Remove the rheum every day from the dog’s eye with a soft, not pottering handkerchief. In case we do not forget this, we do not have to anything else with the eyes.
- Ask your vet to examine the pet’s teeth as well, since the scale on them is a very frequent phenomenon. This can be removed in anaesthesia with laser, or if it is not yet so disastrous crack off with a suitable tool. We can prevent its evolution or we may slow it down with a dentifrice bone (Rask) and by feeding the dog with raw crispy fruits and vegetables (carrot, apple, and pear).
- We can likewise empty the scent gland by ourselves, but if we do not feel like doing it, we can ask the vet to check it at the time of the vaccinations. If it is necessary he will express the anal glands. (In case of a good vet this is part of the examination before vaccination. If he still would not do it spontaneously, ask him for doing it because the not emptied anal gland may lead to serious problems.)
- In summertime, after each walk examine the dog thoroughly (in case of a longer trip in the intervals as well), whether there is awn in its hair. This tiny but dangerous enemy can penetrate very quickly into the pet’s skin by causing a lot of trouble. Pay special attention to the parts between the fingers and the ears. Nowadays we can protect our pets against the parasites in different ways. There are flea collars (Bolfo, Kiltix), which can efficiently keep the pets clear of parasites, but they are not definitely good for our Tibetans’ hackles. It is better to drop insect repellents, in the so called spot and spray variants (Frontline, Exspot), on the scapula. Because of the dangerousness the ticks’ contamination in a big proportion and the illnesses they spread (Lyme disease, Babesiosis) always use some kind of anti-tick insect repellent.